Wednesday, October 12, 2016

Chapter Three: Does it come with a Concierge??

I’ve been to a ridiculous number of RV shows and I’ve found that deciding on an RV is a cross between fit & function and is very personalized.

Fit means is it a good fit for me? Is it comfortable or not? Is the layout workable or is it clunky? Is it warm or kitschy? Is it utilitarian or flashy? Nowadays I can step into a rig and within seconds determine if I’m ‘feeling it’ or not. Some I would go into are very cold and stark while others would try for that suave, sweeping sexy look. Both having advantages and drawbacks. So for the fit portion it essentially boils down to, could I call this home and be comfortable?

Function or functionality which then gets broken down into sub-functions. Things like detail, workmanship, materials, storage space, tankage, weight, length, etc, etc. The list seems to go on forever.

Typically its simple things that start to take a rig downhill in my book pretty quickly. For instance, I’ve noticed that a lot of rigs don’t have a towel bar in the bathroom anymore. Now I know that that’s a very tiny detail, but I think that it’s the little ‘burr under the saddle’ that makes things a pain. Add up several of those and it really starts to become noticeable. I know I could easily fix those things, but I shouldn’t have to.

I read somewhere that an RV traveling down the road is analogous to a continuous mid-level earthquake. Bumps, rocking, swaying, jostling all work to loosen up joints in cabinets, walls, roof, flooring, etc. So if a cabinet is already loose in a brand new rig with zero miles, think of what it will look like after a few thousand miles of traveling! So that’s why I pay special attention to how cabinet joinery is accomplished. Is it stapled or does it have pocket screws and glue? Seeing staples in a cabinet door is an instant total red flag.

I’ve developed a list of items that I consider make/break in a rig. Seeing any one of those fall into the ‘break’ category means the rig gets exited immediately and not waste any further time on it. Of course a rig having all of the boxes checked off will often cost a ridiculous amount, or be so big that it needs a tractor to pull it. That’s why I’ve gone to numerous RV shows, haunted dealership lots, and surfed the internet for hours. Finding the perfect rig has turned into a quest and will hopefully pay off.

So what is the list of some things I look for? Well, since you asked:
  Less than 40 feet long (preferably in the 35 to 38 range)
  Can be pulled by a truck as small as an F-250 w/single rear wheels (weight limits)
  Generous storage area with separate space for generator/batteries
  Load range G tires
  No less than three slides (or if only two then the one in the living space had better be huge)
  Cabinetry that is glued/screwed, not stapled
  Doesn’t have a ridiculously tiny awning
  Rear ladder/rear hitch
  Interior and exterior LED lighting
  Solar pre-wire
  Generator pre-wire
  Motorized/automatic awning
  Slide toppers
  Pre-wire and pre-frame for second bedroom A/C (if not already installed)
  Roof area and layout that allows maximum solar panel layout (Space for 8-10 (12?) solar panels)
  No carpeting (or as little as humanly possible)
  Stove/oven NOT located in a slide (Every stove I’ve seen in a slide for some reason is very low)
  Space and pre-connects for a washer/dryer
  Rear kitchen floor plan (Very much preferred, but negotiable)
  Generous kitchen counter space (you’d be surprised at how small some I’ve seen are)
  Dedicated food pantry
  Convection/microwave oven
  Double stainless steel kitchen sink
  Covers for kitchen sink and stove
  Frameless dual pane windows (R factor and noise)
  Window day shades and night shades
  Queen bed, not king (king takes up too much space) with storage underneath
  Pull out sleeper sofa (for when Jess comes to visit)
  Generous bathroom space and a layout that isn’t a joke (you’d be surprised)
  A real stand-up shower that has believable headroom (yes, I actually stand in them to see)
  Residential fridge (although I can make good arguments for an RV fridge)
  Insulated for winter climes
  Self-leveling system
  Rear-view camera system
  Five step entrance
  Locking slam latches on external storage doors
  At least a group 24 deep cycle battery (prefer a group 27 deep cycle)
  No less than a 1000 watt true sine wave inverter (preferably a 2000 watt)
  Manufacturer that allows small changes in construction
  Manufacturer that has an in-depth factory tour (This may sound trivial, but it isn’t)

Sounds like a ridiculous list doesn’t it? However, most upper end units have about 80-90% of that list as standard features. Notice I say upper end units. I’ve found that there are basically four levels of RVs and range from super-duper cheap to oh-wow expensive.

The lowest level is what I call the ‘El-Cheapo Weekend Warrior RV’ that will only get used on a few weekends and maybe a week of vacation per year. They will end up being what I call storage lot queens. That’s where they are stored for 99% of the time and used only about 1% of the time. Typically they are very low quality and have a very low (if any) resale value. These would not stand up to full-timing at all.

The second level is what I call the ‘Luxury Weekend Warrior’. This is where the toy haulers and somewhat nicer cheap RVs are. These are still for the weekenders, but they have a few of the options that the nicer rigs have. These often will be storage lot queens also. These often will actually have some resale value, but still won’t stand up to everyday (literally) use.

The third level I call the ‘Full Timer Class’ and these RVs are mostly designed for full-timing. They are set up and built with the full-timer in mind. They are noticeably better built and with that come a better price. These approach the feeling of having your living room on wheels. Most of the appliances and fixtures will be residential grade and not the cheap plastic RV crap. This is the level where I am looking.

The fourth level is the super high end RV. They are either semi-custom or full-custom built and bring a very hefty price tag. These will often need the very biggest of passenger truck (think F-450) on up to a full blown semi-tractor to pull them. I even found a company that takes full size semi-tractor/trailer rigs and will build them out for personalized RVs. They are HUGE and demand an equally HUGE price. They’re fun to look at, but are way outside of my price range.

That about covers the fifth wheel, so what am I doing for a vehicle to pull my humble abode? Well, I initially started looking at Toyota Corollas, but quickly ruled them out as they didn’t come in my color. Wouldn’t that be a crazy sight, a fifth wheel squashing a tiny Toyota?

Anyway, back in the land of reality, I thought originally that I would buy a used truck that only had just a few thousand miles on it. This way I wouldn’t get hit with the depreciation of a new truck. However, there are a few problems with that idea.

1.       I very likely wouldn’t be able to get the options I want on it
2.       I would have to spend additional money to get an aftermarket 5th wheel hitch installed ($$)
3.       I would have no idea as to how the truck was used (or abused) in its prior life
4.       No idea as to how the maintenance was kept up (or not)
5.       The truck would NOT have any warranty

That last item turned out to be the deal breaker. A warranty while on the road is extremely valuable and will be worth quite a lot. So I researched into new trucks and yes, they are expensive. However it did fix all five of the problems above. Actually, it ended up that the depreciation hit wasn’t all that horrible after all once all the factors were added in. Having that 5 year/100,000 mile warranty is worth a LOT of money in my mind.

Another big plus is that I can get a truck that is a bit bigger than what I actually need right now. Then if I decide to get a bigger and/or heavier 5'er (jargon, nice right?) later on, I already have a truck that can handle it. It also means that I’m not maxing out the truck all the time and wearing it out.

The other thing I found out is that it doesn’t cost one extra penny to order EXACTLY the truck I want directly from the factory. The only drawback is that I have to be willing to wait about three months to get it. Well, that’s no problem for me. I’ll just order it right around the end of November which should put delivery right around the end of February, right about the time I’m ordering the trailer. Huh, imagine that, the timing is almost like it was planned that way.

Sorry, this entry got too long, but it’s vitally important to get this part right.


Next up: Making the jump from traditional sticks and bricks house to full-time RV living

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